Interlaken

Interlaken Today we crossed over the alps from Montreux into a small skiing town called Interlaken. This was the place that our Jamie went to twice to go snow-boarding in the middle of winter and recommended it as a place to go if we could. The trip over was absolutely stunning ( I am going to use this word a lot to describe what we have seen in Switzerland). We went zig-zagging up the steep cliffs behind Montreux and were able to look down on the town from up high.

Then it was through the mountains, like going through the mountain passes you see on TV. Sights of the snow in the distance, steep sides, streams, gorges etc – in fact very similar to NZ.

No dramas this time with any trains – only had to change the once.

We spent the whole trip (4 hours) just gazing at the scenery in awe. It was just so stunning (again!). As we were coming into Interlaken it was even more so. Two lakes on each side, town in the middle and high mountains all around. One thing straight away we found out was how nice the people are here. Very friendly when asking directions and all have spoken good English. (even the one-armed taxi driver who was trying to struggle with our big bags into the boot before Dave took over – the taxi driver wanted to practise his English on us!) Our hotel was gorgeous – very Swiss looking – with old style inside. Made me feel as if I really was in Switzerland.

The first afternoon we wandered around the town and discovered all the shops and restaurants etc. We had a beer in one place then strolled down the road to Hooters (yes they have one here! Dave was fascinated at watching the old guys leering at the girls – even he said it was totally inappropriate) where we had another beer and food and watched the para gliders landing in the park opp. It was fantastic as they start off on a high mountain behind the town (you can see them) and then they just float for ages before landing. I seriously considered doing it (tandem) and the view must be amazing, but a) it was 140 Euro and b) I would spend most of it with my eyes closed so what was the point! We then strolled into this ticket place where we discussed how to get up to the Top of Europe, the next day. The guy was older and extremely helpful about tips and savings on fares etc. We ended up very grateful to him the next day…… What a glorious sunny day (no cloud in the sky) to be going up to the Top of Europe. Bet you don’t know what that is .. well Jamie suggested we have to do it. At the side of Interlaken are some majestic mountains which include the Eiger and Jungfrau (which is the highest peak in Europe). What happened was in 1908 to 1912 a very brave engineer designed a 5km tunnel through these mountains with a cog rail track to take people (back then mountaineers) up to the top. It was opened in 1912 and is now celebrating its centenary. It costs the earth to go up, but as we had a Eurorail pass we got lots of discount (thank god). You take a train from Interlaken up one side of the mountain range with once again stunning scenery (mainly forest and streams). Then waiting for you is a cog train which takes you up the winding track (start to see snow, peaks and steep valleys). After that you change to the next cog train (each a little smaller and slower than the last one) and you see these amazing snowy mountains all around you. You can see where you are going to if you stretch your head back, to a tiny restaurant way on the ridge of Jungfrau.

The small cog train went into the tunnel at a steep angle and that was it for 5 km. there were 2 stops for 5 min whereby everyone rushed out to an area where you could see out - lots of snow and looking way, way down to the little towns we changed stations at.

Before I go any further, there were Asians everywhere! In fact 2 carriages on each train was reserved for a tour group, so you can imagine what it was like when the train stopped. A stampede does not describe it – all rushing to get the best shots through the window, pushing and shoving each other and all others in the way. Hideous. At the top, you get out still in the tunnel and follow the arrows. We ended up touring the area for an hour and a half. There is a lookout, then you can go outside on the balcony all around – freezing cold but the sun was shining, no wind really – lots of photos. It really was like being on top of the world. Peaks glistening with snow – just spectacular.

After that we went out on to the snow, lots of Asians with heels on (I kid you not!) slipping on the ice – grabbing each other and knocking others over. Quite hilarious really. Check out these photos – the wind came up a little (app. Well below freezing outside).

Just an aside - we were now 3482m above sea level. In comparison Mt Ruapehu is 2797m high (so we were a lot higher than its peak) and Mt Cook is 3754m high, so just under its height. We both started having breathing problems and dizziness, more so with Dave more than me. If we walked quickly along a corridor or went up a slight rise (going outside) we were puffing and gulping in breaths to compensate for lack of oxygen. Under ground there was also a snow ice palace place ……. (once again Asians on heels sliding all over the place because the floor was ice too!)

And then a Snow fun place with also the history of how they made the tunnel on the side. (app. Lots of drilling and deaths taking place)

I can say, the whole view was awe inspiring – I just couldn’t stop saying – oh wow! Oh wow! On the way back – there was a little incident which marred things a little. Lots of people up there waiting for a train to go down (went every half hour so no real rush), and this Asian guy pushed me aside as I was getting on the train and then proceeded to push Dave aside ahead of me. Dave had had enough by this time (we had been pushed and shoved all day by these extremely rude people) and poked this guy and told him in no uncertain terms how rude he was and that he had no right to do that to other people etc. (no swear words!) the guy looked shocked, and the ones trying to follow him suddenly stopped pushing me and stood down waiting! I think they need to be told, honestly .. it was just horrible. Anyway after that we met a lovely couple from India (lots of Indian tourists too, but they have manners and not pushy)… who wants to come to NZ because India is felly, felly hot! Just loved him! On the way down back down the tunnel (praying to god the brakes hold!), we changed trains again and went down the other side to a little town called grimelwald, where Jamie actually went ski- ing. Obviously it was now luschious and green, with swiss chalets all over the place. You could see the ski lifts and gondalas where people go up. Dave went through a field of wild flowers, with the snow peaks behind. Also there were some para gliders taking off from the top of the peaks in the distance (not as high as we went up) and gliding all around the steep sides for ages. Can you pick them out?

Talking about that, it was amazing the number of locals and tourists who take these trains up with their hiking sticks and hop off at little places to either walk up or down or over the ridges as the case may be. Very impressive, as most of them were quite old too! Talk about being fit. Even saw some mountain bikers trying to climb up the trails very slowly.

By the way - they really do put cow bells on the cows in the meadows! Heres the proof!

All in all, an amazing day – it took 2 half hours to get up there, longer coming back because we stopped off at a couple of places to have a look around. Very tired afterwards. We went out later on and found Dave a swiss watch, which I had promised him. Unfotunately he didn’t want a fake one from Hongkong, so we had to do lots of searching but finally found one in our price range (as you can guess it wasn’t a Rolex!) Found some swiss chocolate too, yum!

Montreux - Switzerland

We have arrived in Switzerland to a lovely place called Montreux. How on earth did you find this place? you may well ask - well the truth was we didnt! We had arranged to meet up with the Heatons, who are grandparents of lovely girls from our school, plus Doug (the grandfather) worked with Dave a while ago before he retired to the hills in Havelock. We thought we were meeting them either in Zurich or Intelaken, but a few emails later we organised to meet at this place (Montreux) their idea. Getting there was a mission of gigantic proportions! We left Munich at 8.45am, and had connections with other trains with about 5 min. inbetween each connection to catch the next train! all we needed was the train to be a minute late and we were in trouble. As it was the first connection, we made it on time, (bags up, in up on rack etc) then we hit a snag. I had a nana nap, then suddenly Dave's telling me quick, quick we have to get off the train - its going to Berlin (we were going to Bern!) I register that everyone was off the train, and the train is getting ready to leave1 Talk about move! Offthe train - where the hell are we? up to information desk, next train leaves for Bern in 2 mins. and we ran! bags and all! Dave said he would've loved a camera to catch me running dragging this bag! we get on it as the door is closing! hoped to god it was the right one - and collapse in a heap on the seats. (Thats train 2!) train 3 was another mad dash, to get on as doors close, then another one Train 4. Train 5 it was another frantic rush - but then we could relax because it was the last one. The scenery suddenly changed and we were in mountains, and peaks of snow, and chalet towns. fields of hay and cows in paddocks etc. It was just lovely! I spent an hour just gazing out the window in awe. Exactly what I pictured Switzerland to be. Montreux emerged from the mountains, a stunning town on the edge of Lake Geneva. Just stunning. (think Queenstown, more on the side of the cliffs tho). All I could say as the train came in was - oh my god! it was a lot bigger than I thought - i was thinking Wanaka - but you could walk this beautiful walking path around the lake front - which took you to the main area. Before I put the photos of the place on - does any of you know what Montreux is famous for? ........ you may get a clue from the photos.

Pick him out? Yes - Freddie Mercury (Queen) lived here, and died here. there is a special statue commemorating him by the lakeside. When he got Aids badly, he lived here in a lovely secluded mansion on the lake. The lake itself is huge, much bigger than Taupo, and we are at one end of it. Mountains surround the lake, so it must be gorgeous in Winter. There are some beautiful old hotels with balconies overlooking the lake, and we were lucky to get into one with a huge balcony that you sit and drink on, or have your tea on and just look out at the lake. The hillsides are steep, but they managed to get some old houses perched on the edge of no where, with little winding streets coming down. There is even a long, steep cog railway going up a side of a hill to a old hotel sitting way up at the top. We met up with the Heatons that night, and had a drink on the hotel balcony with them, then wandered along the lake path and found a place to eat. Extremely expensive - actually a shock going from 8 Euro for a main, to 28 Euro! Today we all met up and walked about 30 min along the lake path away from town to a castle perched on a rock in the lake. (just off shore, so you walk over a little bridge to get to it) Its called Chillon Castle. It was a castle for the Dukes of Savoy, but was famous for its prison (Lord Byron wrote a poem about a prisoner who was chained up to a wall in the dungeon for 6 years) and lots of torture and killing of witches. Did you know that Switzerland ( or the Alp region in general) had the highest number of witch burnings and witchhunts during the 16/17th century? Anyway there was a lot of information about it at the castle, cause there were numerous torture chambers and instruments on show - complete with paintings of the time. Enough to give you nightmares. One thing I discovered was that one method of torture the nazis used in Dachau ( tie hands behind your back, then hang you up on a hook by your hands behind you - your shoulders dislocate etc) was actually a lovely idea used by the Inquisition and advocated by the Pope of the time! and we thought the Nazis were bad. After our tour, we walked back along the lake front, discovered a yummy icecream place, and had a rest on deck chairs in the sun. Can you see the mountains and the castle in the distance? Anyway it was lovely to catch up with people you know, we met up again tonight for another lakeside beer and dinner. Nice way to end our stay in this gorgeous place.

Quick snapshot of Munich

Our last day in Munich was a bit of blob one, just hopped on and off the hopon/off bus so we could get an overview of the city. right in the middle was another amazing thunderstorm so we were lucky we were on the bus looking at people running around trying to get out of the rain! therefore the pictures werent all that flash - plenty of old buildings again.

We did get to drive around the Olympic Park where they held the Olympic Games in 1972 (was that the one where the Israeli athletes were held hostage?) and by that was the BMW headquarters with a museum of the cars so had to put that picture in as Dave was quite keen to go, but we ran out of time! Dave said to mention the highlight of the day was a yummy pork knuckle meal washed down with local beer (we went past the brewery)! the thunderstorms prevented us going into a proper beer garden so this was the next best thing!

Munich - Dachau

Had our first day in Munich - and decided to spend it in a not so joyful way - at the Dachau concentration Camp Memorial. It was a guided tour, which takes you on the train and bus to Dachau (app. the town wants to change its name, however it would be too confusing for tourists and thats how they make their money). Dachau as a town is much bigger than I thought. they have a memorial route marked out from the train station (where the poor people had to get off the cattle cars) to the camp as this was the route the prisoners had to march in appalling conditions. Once there, there is no charge and it is huge. You walk a way before you meet the gate which has the words (in german) 'work free's' on them. Dachau was actually the first concentration camp set up by the Nazis back in 1933 - for political prisoners (think communists, leaders of the other political parties that opposed Hitler, even priests who spoke out against him) not acutally for jews. It wasnt until 1938 when our little dictator declared the Jewish solution (all this before the war began) that Jews started to arrive (plus gypsies, homosexuals, homeless, mentally disabled). the site held 37 barracks which was suppossed to house about 200 each, however in 1944, 45 they each held up to 2000, all squashed in on top of each other. When the site became a memorial site in 1964 (i think) the barracks had to be demolished due to structures fall apar, but what they did was reconstruct 2 barracks like the orgional ones so you get an idea of the conditions (with orgional toilets and sinks). they have left the concrete foundations of the other barracks so you get an idea of the size of the place the detainee prison for 'special prisoners' (think very bad - tortured by SS, starved, etc) is still in its orgional form (very spooky as they have photos of the prisoners that were recorded as being in each cell over the time in that cell - esp. with some having died in those cells). the rest of the area in admin is now a museum with lots of information and photos and even a whipping block with whip that was used as punishment with photos of it being used. I didnt know, but the Laufwaffte? (air force) used some of the prisoners in special experiments carried out in the medical block. these involved how cold water can be (think pilots shot down over the sea) before a pilot dies in it (hypothermia) and what clothing protects them the best. so the poor prisoners were put in this freezing ice bath with controlled temps and timed etc to see their reaction to the cold (plus photos). the other one was how high pilots can fly before they black out (think compression chamber) prisoners put in and timed at diff. altitudes to see what happens to them (they die). Also injecting prisoners with salt water to see how long a pilot could survive drinking salt water if shot down in the ocean. Quite horrific, what was worse was it was all meticoulously recorded and even filmed. Any way, after coping with all that we then walked to the perimeter fence where there was a grass area (shoot to kill if any one stepped on the grass),deep ditch, barbed wire rolls, watch towers and electric fence plus another ditch on other side. (only one person ever escaped). After that was the cremortorium ovens (it wasnt a death camp, mainly a labour camp) however they burnt bodies of dead prisoners (either tortured to death, shot, died from sickness or starvation) there. there were large beams above them, where the SS would hang people, and threw them straight into the ovens).There was a gas chamber which you walked through (only used on about 7 prisoners as an exxperiment to see if it worked) which was horrible. At the back of the camp there are now 4 chapels built, russian orthadox, (25,000 russian prisoners came here and most died) a catholic one, a protestant one and a Jewish one. the jewish one was so symbolic because all the stones and labour came from Israel, who constructed it with the help of Jewish survivors. You could see a video about the camp, with real footage taken by the Germans. Also the liberation of the camp by the Americans and what they found and saw.(bodies waiting to be cremated left in a pile outside the cremortoriam, bodies in cattle cars waiting to be taken away). they made the people of Dachau at the time come and look at these sights, and you can see footage of their reaction on the video (shocked and horrified - they didnt know - yeah right!). Any way - a very sobering day, with a very somber group leaving after 4 hours plus. I think they need to keep places like this so people dont forget (big sign there - 'never forget' in 5 languages). I have put all the photos together - please take time to look at them because everyone needs to know

Prague

Praha (Prague to the uninitiated!) is a lovely city. Easy to find your way around, and great transport system. We were lucky because after much anguish we managed to get a hotel very close to the main Old Town square (main tourist area)near the tube and virtually next door to the main shopping mall. Dont know how we did it, but it was a positively splendid location for us. We met up with boat friends the first night we were there, and had a late drink and dinner at one of the many bars and rest. nearby. They had been here for a day already so could point us in the right direction for things! First main day there we did a tour of the castle up on the hill and our guide showed us all the main points up there. It is a huge area (not very castle like! has a church and lots of buildings in it). the church is where dear old king Wencesles is buried (he was actually stabbed by his brother who wanted to take over)(guide told us they had never heard of the song until a few years ago after the place was opened up after communism and tourists started coming in h oardes). We also got to see the changing of the guards as well. You can see it all in the photos. After that we did a hopon hopoff bus trip around - this was entertaining as you had a guide talking to you on a mike and he was hiliarious - very scathing about the communists (they took over all the richies houses and threw them out on the street)so got a general idea of the place.

that afternoon we had an escorted tour of the Jewish District (right near the square) which covered a few blocks of buildings and synagogs. this was fascinating cause this area was locked up at night with huge gates at the entrances for over 400 years long before Hiltler decided he didnt like them much. they couldnt lend money to christians, could only go to schools in the Jewish district, etc. app. they didnt do too badly in the holocaust because they were already in this ghetto, 40% died! this is not too badly in the local eyes! the sad part was those who got out early with passports etc were the only ones allowed to come back and claim their buildings after the war, because the ones sent to concentration camps etc were without identification after the war and couldnt prove who they were to claim back their property. The last photo is of the old Jewish cemetry in the sector and was the only place they were allowed to bury their dead for hundreds of years. Therefore they had to layer their dead on top of each other, they reackon there are 200,000 buried in this small area. That is why there is a wall around it (see the gravestones up high?) to keep all the bodies in. Shocking eh?

Of course, once again like Hungary, then the commumists took over till 1989. the difference between here and Budapest is they have a strongish economy and have embraced the tourist trade with all bells on. The ammenities for tourists are great, lots of information areas, clean toilets, cheerful shopkeepers etc plus lots of police presence to make you feel safe. not many beggars or homeless people as a result as well. the buildings are well looked after, and restored carefully. After the Jewish sector tour we ended up by the river and had a little river cruise under the Charles Bridge, which is the main tourist walk bridge, So after all that we once again met up with our friends off the boat and had more beers and food! forgot to mention this weeked there is a 10,000 strong beer festival in town, so lots of wandering groups of drunken men everywhere! even stronger police presence than before on Sat. when it started. On Sat. we wandered into the square to see the famous 'Astronomical Clock' chime. There were literally thousands of people crammed around this bell tower of a large cathedral in the square waiting for the hour! What a let down! these figures pop in and out, and skeletons rang bells for a few seconds and that was it! dave climbed to the top of the tower to take a picture of the view of the main square.

Then we had to push our way through to find our way to the Charles Bridge by the river. This meant winding our way through little cobblestone streets, to come out to another mass of bodies trying to get on to the bridge! (Sat morning not a good time me thinks!) We decided to climb up this tower (137 steps)that starts the bridge. I was very good you'll be pleased to hear - great view of the area) On the other side of the bridge in some out of the way street, we found -... wait for it .... John Lennon's Wall! created after he died! can you pick me out amongst all the messages???

anyway - we managed to get on the bus and get back to our hotel to escape those tourists (how dare they want to do what we wanted to do!) had a lazy afternoon actually went into the mall to look around -no buying. a nice end to a busy few days.

Very First Eurorail Trip!

Our first euro rail train trip to Prague today! Was feeling apprehensive at first – tho we knew where to go etc just not what to expect (the unwritten code about behaviour on these trains etc.) So ---- first up, caught the metro with our bags trailing behind to the big railway station whereby – low and behold – our train was right in front of us. We checked out the carriages and seats (we had paid extra for seat numbers) and clambered on board. The trains are high up off the platform (first prob) so Dave had to get up with one bag, then step down to haul mine up! And then find a place to put our big bags. Thankfully the overhead luggage racks are that big that they will take our size bags – however (2nd prob) how to get them up there! Once again the mighty muscles of my man came into play – and he almost threw them up there! So now we know! The reserved signs are for the seats reserved (like us) and the rest are a free for all! You saw students racing down the side of the train looking for carriages with seats in them, then racing on board before the others etc. discovered (3rd Prob) when a train comes into a station, the doors are timed to open and shut after say 3 mins. so that was the amount of time we had to get off at Vienna! think the replay of above with bags and then getting them down onto the platform in under 3 mins. plus others waiting!!!! The trains themselves aren’t too bad. We have 1st class cause we booked seats for a little extra, and you get food service. This trip is 8 hours including a changeover of trains in Vienna (had to go through the haul bags around thing again!) so long day. On arrival in Prague - bit of a performance in finding the metro station (was actually right there inside the lovely new train station we arrived at!) discovered this after a little diversion outside and after asking 3 people cause we couldnt find it). Of course there were flights of stairs to go down (no elevators so once again Dave hauling bags everywhere) anyway 2 lots of tubes later - voila! we have arrived!

Budapest again

The final night of our boat cruise was rather memorable. We had Hungarian dancers and musicians entertaining us, then a Hungarian type dinner with the boat then doing a slow night cruise up and down the Danube. We were treated to the fantastic lights of the different bridges and the buildings on both sides. Plus it was a warm evening so pleasant being up top and watching the lights.

Our exit from the boat was rather fast! Our hotel was about a 30 min walk down the side of the Danube, but too far to pull our bags, so Dave was off at 8am in a taxi with our bags to drop them off, then raced back to the boat again (walking) so we could go with the others by bus to the opp. Bank and spend the day doing the touristy things. We got the hop on hop off bus and were able to see and hear about much more of the city than before. It was rather hot though, 30 degrees, so exhausted by the time we finally got back to our hotel (45 min walk back!!). That was at 9pm that night so no wonder I was dead on my feet. Today was a couple of ‘first’ adventures for us both. We both had our first tube (metro) experience to get to the big train station to sort out our Euro rail tickets etc. Quite interesting getting tickets on the metro (Dave pointing to places on the map, how many stops? Etc) then brave the hordes and try and work out the right train (hey – Hungarian is not the easiest to read!). After we managed it the once and got off at the right stop it was fairly simple after that! The second ‘first’ was finding our way around the ‘international ticket’ section, whereby we stood waiting for ages and then noticed that everyone else had ticket numbers in their hands, and when the number was called out, then it was your turn! So then it was another long wait with our precious number in our hands. The good part was we encountered a lovely lady (who actually looked like a witch with bright red hair, pointy nose, glare etc) but ended up being so helpful. She sorted everything out for us for our first train trip to Prague and made it sound so easy; we were able to relax a bit. The rest of the day was at the St Peters Basilica (big cathedral) with an amazing dome in the middle.

and the ‘House of Terrors’. Now this was a very interesting place, esp. if you didn’t know anything about Hungarian history during the war, and after with the Russians. This was a rather ordinary house on a busy street where firstly the Germans set up headquarters towards the end of the war, and then the Russians used it afterwards as their headquarters. The torture chambers and prisoner cells down below are downright frightening (they have turned this place into a museum to depict the horrors carried out by both nasties). The sad thing was most of the nasty stuff was actually carried out by local Hungarians onto themselves. I.e. the German Hungarian supporters formed a ‘special squad’ to get rid of traitors ( Hungarian against Germany) the Russians carried on by getting a local communist group to form another ‘special squad’ to kill the first squad members and then go on to torture and kill some more locals! The cells were left in their entirety, some with small holes with doors (solitary confinement) the torture room with electric prods, pliers, whips etc and then came the hanging room! (this was accompanied by a video clip on the tv on the wall from the man who helped do the hanging explaining in great detail how they did it.) the sad part was this museum was supposed to represent the Hungarian Jews that were sent to death camps towards the end of the war, as well as the others (and there were hundreds of thousands) that suffered at the hands of the Russians (sent off to ‘work camps’ in Siberia etc. Of the exhibition area (3 floors and the notorious basement) only one half of a room was for the Jewish remembrance. Shows how much they really cared I think. The rest of it though, was an eye-opener into what life was like up until the 1990’s, which was when the communist rule stopped. So …….. Great way to spend the afternoon! so rry not photos allowed! The last day in Budapest was our blob day, which we needed after all the frantic trips on the boat etc we lazed in, went for a walk to Margaret Is. (an island in the middle of the Danube nearby, and you get to it by bridge. It’s their recreational area, so think a lovely leafy park with boats going past both sides). We got caught out here by a ferocious thunderstorm! Lots of thunder and lightning – very close- and tremendously heavy rain. Think Pacific islands (30 degrees, 96 % humidity) etc in the middle of Hungary - rather unexpected. Last night was a lovely meal down below in a basement under the road! Yes it sounds strange, but it was close by the hotel, in the local area and we kept noticing locals going down these steps through a thick door, so decided to see what it was. A quite big restaurant with leather walls and dark lighting etc. so we ended up having a cheap meal (local prices not tourist) and lovely beer too. Nice way to end our stay in Budapest.