Venice -Venencia

Venice

What a place – like nothing we have been to before.

We arrived and had to take a water taxi across the huge lagoon to the main island where St Marks Square is. First impression was I didn’t realise Venice was made up of all these islands (some connected by little bridges, some aren’t), all in this huge lagoon which goes out to the sea.

We had to go in 4 water taxis, and our luggage went separately in special heavy duty boats to the hotel.

The hotel we were in is an old monastery converted, and you arrive down a little canal with two steps up to this door in the brick side! Once inside however it was lovely. All brick, wood, archways. Our room had two brick walls (original) and looked out over this little garden. By the way Florence and here have the smallest showers! Poor Dave has to suck in his ever-expanding tummy to fit in!

After settling in it was a walk to the other side of the hotel to another canal which we walked along to have dinner in this little restaurant. Saw big trees growing from small gardens (there must be dirt underneath for the trees to grow into?), lots of little boats tied up for personal use (like cars) even dogs going for walks. After a lovely dinner it was off to another canal to water taxis for a Venice at Night tour down the Grand Canal! This was about 8pm, and the canal was a bit of a disappointment. I thought it would be busier! The lights on the gorgeous buildings were neat, the gondalas were all tied up, small amounts of people were walking along or eating at restaurants  on the side paths. Not the hussle and bussle I thought would still be happening at night. After that it was around the corner of the main island and tie up close by St Marks Square. We were walked through these narrow alleyways of exclusive shops to come out to this mainly empty square! The buildings were magnificent, as was the St Marks Basilica all lit up. I think this was the best way to see it. We walked out by the side and sat undet the eves of balconies and had supper (gelato, coffees, wines etc) and litstened to this orchestra playing and people singing. Quite lovely experience, especially with hardly anyone around.

Then back onto water taxis, around the outside of the island and back to the hotel.

The next morning it was on water taxis (again!) and over to another island to watch glassblowing at this venetian glass factory. App. The govt. is supporting this craft as 80-90% of glass sold as Venetian gl ass are rip-offs from China! Surprise, surprise. Very interesting old gondola on display outside.

Fascinated by the glass blowing (he made a vase and a horse and had huge arms from being so strong from pulling the glass out into shape).

 Well …. Mama mia! I was in love! I have never been all that interested in the glass, but when you see rooms of this beautiful glass (traditional shapes, modern) on display I was in awe of the craftsmanship (all made at this factory) and the colours!

Dave said go for it, so I did! I am now the proud owner of a lovely big piece that cost the earth! It has all the venetian colours done in a non-traditional take of a traditional mosaic pattern (make sense?) they do free shipping, guarantees, warranties, insurance….. it should be home by early November.

So ……. After spending all our spending money in one go it was off for a walk around St. Marks Square, church in the daylight. This was about 11am and my god, the crowds! I would hate to think what it was like in the height of summer. The day had started cooler (had a long-sleeve cardi on – you are in a straight line to the Alps) but by then it was all sunshine and blue sky. You walk along the main viaduct where the gondolas go from, boats go from – out into the lagoon. Beautiful view, sparkling water. Lots of little bridges to cross as you walk along as the canals go out into the lagoon. This was all hussle and bussle!

Our tour guide Gary was brilliant – he showed us little alleyway eateries where you can eat cheap and not be charged to sit or to sit outside. He showed us this luxury old hotel called Hotel Danieli which you sneaked into the lobby to have a coffee and wow! The décor was outstanding. Chandeliers, marble walls and staircases, (I looked it up on-line and 450 Euros to stay one night).

After that was the best experience of the tour.

We had a gondola ride. 4 or 6 in each boat (there is about 40 of us). Gary sorted it all out cause of weight distribution etc. Dave and I, and this Bostonian joe (he is 6’4” and makes Dave look tiny) and his wife, went in one boat. Just as we took off another guy and lovely girl hopped in. We thought ok, extras for the ride, thought nothing of it. Slowly followed the others under Bridge of Sighs (covered in high little bridge that traditionally went from the court house (criminals charged, condemned) across to the prison next door where they went to jail (hence the sigh as they went across the bridge!).

Suddenly the man takes out his accordion and starts playing lovely music. –neat I thought music as we drift along, adding to the mood, then the girl dramatically stands up at the front of the gondola and starts singing gorgeous opera songs! All expressive gestures and faces – while we were drifting along these narrow little canals. Her voice just was amazing and reverberated up the walls each side. We would go under little bridges and people were on them taking photos, people along the little pathways were stopping to take photos, people putting their heads out the windows taking photos! Each time we came to a bridge she would duck and stand up singing again! Wow! Joes’s wife and I were in tears it was that emotional! I will send the video on email as you can’t put videos on the blog but it was just a mind-blowing emotional experience. All for us in our gondola! (Actually Gary had arranged it as a surprise because all the other gondolas could hear them, but we were the lucky ones that felt it was a personal experience just for us!) Mama mia!

Afterwards (took about 30 mins gondola ride) we were back and both of us gave them a tip (have only tipped Franca in Rome so far on the bus trip cause she was great!) and I got a hug! Gary was just smiling at us as I think he knew what a fantastic experience it would be.

So feeling all emotional and blown-away it was on another large water taxi for 30 min. across the lagoon to an outer island called Burano, which is small, and known for fishing, bright coloured-houses and lace making. It was a gorgeous laid-back little place, nice to chill out after the highs of the day. I loved it – canals more open, bright blue, yellow, red, pink houses with flowers etc. the ‘High St’ – open piazza was with stalls and shops selling lace products. Once again the govt. is sponsoring this home-made craft as a means to stop a dying art and to stop rip-offs. I am not much of a lace fan but the linen, and fabrics, clothing were very special. I ended up buying 6 little lace (white and gold) Christmas decorations for the Christmas tree, to remind me of our time there. Also some local glass (genuine) jewellery.

 Below was the Venice idea of a garden roof bar!

We had dinner provided at this seafood restaurant – starters –seafood pate, then seafood pasta, then seafood risotto, then grilled John Dory and salad, then deep-fried shrimp and squid, then dessert and fruit, then coffee and Amaretto? A liquor, all accompanied by white and red wine (quite drinkable). All you sea lovers out there we were thinking of you with each mouthful. The seafood was mainly squid and shrimp, so I gave him the squid and I got his shrimp! So a lovely full-tummy, satisfying end to an amazing experience type of day.

When we got back to the hotel (by water taxi again) it was sunset over Venice – lovely.

Thoughts on Venice – lovely, lots of unexpected experiences, busy with tourists, but amazing crafts happening. The water-taxis were special – couldn’t get over the way they knew where to go down the tiny canals, and the open high-ways set out between islands and mainlands. We even saw a water ambulance, water hop-on-off bus! (red too) and water ute!( a boat full of equipment, tools, materials which workmen were standing and working off!). Dave was fascinated.

Downside – without going on a tour I think it would be frustrating to get around. A few of our guys tried to walk back to our hotel from various places and kept getting lost walking down tiny pathways as GPS wouldn’t work with the 5 story buildings 2 metres each side of you!